Common questions I get asked are "What products do you use?", "How did you make that/what is it made of?" and "Where can I buy that?"...
I may have different methods from others - and that's ok! Whatever works for you and your style of creation is the important part. One of my prerequisites is that it has to be quick drying as I'm extremely impatient. I won't mention scenery in this one, because I could write a novel on scenery products! I will say, if I had shares in Woodlands Scenics, i'd be writing this on a tropical island with a Mojito in hand.
Here's a list of the products I swear by.
CA or "Supaglue"
BSI Super Gold + Medium Odorless CA - $$$
Consistency, quality, drying time, packaging, foam safe, no crazing (fogging) - everything about this glue is superior. It is more expensive but I use this on every single model. Wood, plastics, windows, foam, paper. Price range depends on size but I buy 1oz every 6 months. Available at most hobby shops, I get mine from Metro Hobbies here.
PVA
Icky Sticky PVA or Studymate Kids PVA Glue - $
Versatile, quick drying. I use PVA mostly for setting my scenery or gluing foam. Mixing 1 part PVA to 2 parts water and a drop of dishwashing liquid. I spray my scenery with IPA and then using a dropper, I soak the scenery in PVA dilute. Takes about 5-6 hours to dry (or use a hair dryer for 10-15 minutes) Be aware, this may dry shiny if you use too much glue.
Accelerator
ZAP Zip Kicker Aerosol Spray - $$
I said I was impatient right? Easy to use, quick. If I'm using CA, this is pretty much next to it. Warning - this stuff STINKS, I don't like using it unless a window is open. Very strong shoe polish smell. A tip for my sign assembly. I place the sign on its image side, place a tiny amount of CA on the back. Use a piece of BluTak to hold the pole and dip it in a small amount of accelerator. Place it straight onto the sign. It attaches immediately and the BlueTak helps the pole not run away. I got mine from The Hobbyman
Debonder
ZAP Z-7 Debonder - $
I'm surely not the only one who glues their fingers together? Get yourself some debonder. You can also use a razor/shaver (be gentle obviously) on your fingertips/skin if you've done yourself a proper mischief.
Foam board
Bastion Extruded Foam Board from Bunnings - $
Easy to cut, versatile, readily available. I use this for my base in every single model I've made. Sheets cost $20, depending on what you're making, you can get a lot out of one sheet.
Asphalt
AK Interactive Dioramas: Terrains Asphalt - $$
I can't speak more highly of this product. It's easy to use, quick-drying and extremely realistic. It can be expensive if you are doing a lot of asphalt, so keep that in mind when planning your project.
Resin
Epoxy Resin - $$
I buy my resin from Amazon, I've found it's the most cost-effective and convenient. I use lots of resin in my models and it can be a stressful process. You don't need a lot to make a scene come alive. My advice is always, be prepared! Be extra diligent when sealing edges. The deeper the pour, the quicker it sets.
Paint
Scale Modellers Supply SMS (for airbrush) - $
SMS Rust Set (for rust effect) - $$
Born Acrylic from Officeworks (for dirt bases) - $
Vallejo Acrylics (for models ) - $$
Winston & Newton Oils (for backgrounds) - $$$
Good quality paint is essential to a realistic model, you get what you pay for. I could talk about paint for hours. If you're just starting, don't go out and buy a 120 paint set - you won't use 80% of the colours and they'll go stale after a few years. The main colours I use are earthy tones, grey, cream/ivory, white and black. A 17ml bottle will last you a long time for small models. I use Reeve Acrylic Paint Sets for my buildings and models if they need bright colours like Luna Park.
Acrylic Thinner
Tamiya 81040 X-20A Acrylic Thinner from Metro Hobbies - $
Essential if you use an airbrush with acrylic lacquer.
Painting Clip Set
Icky Sticky Painting Clip Set - $
I didn't know what I was missing out on until I got this set, I love it! Affordable, surprisingly durable and handy. If you are constantly dropping little bits of models or painting your fingers by accident, grab yourself one of these. Great for people who use spray can paint.
Airbrush Compressor
Iwata Ninja Jet Compressor - $$$
An airbrush setup can be a large investment for some. You can spend anywhere from $200 - $1000 for a basic set up. Depending on what you want to achieve, I think somewhere in the middle is appropriate if it's something that you want to pursue. I personally use the Ninja Jet and I love it, I've used it for three years without a problem.
Airbrush
Iwata Dual Action Neo Airbrush Gravity .35m - $$$
I don't have much experience in different types of airbrushes, but I can't fault this one. It's great for little models and easy to clean.
Spray Booth
Hobby Basics Portable Airbrush Spray Booth - $$
This is absolutely hands down one of my favourite items I own. The built-in LED lights, the fan, turn table, compactness, easy to transport - excellent product.
3D Printer
There are a lot of different opinions on 3D printers. Resin/filament, brand, quality, print time etc. all warranted. As someone who uses 3D printing as a source of income, I tried 3 different printers and this one is my favourite. It's never failed me, if there has been an issue, it's a user error and not the machine. It's extremely affordable, compact and just what I need to print trains, buildings and figures.
Thanks for taking the time to read. As mentioned before, every modeler is different. People have preferences for different brands, quality and prices. Whatever you decide to use, remember to have fun!